An SPF and skincare guide
Caring for your skin should not be complicated. In this guide I explain in plain language how to get to know your skin type, build a daily routine and choose the right SPF.
AuthorDr. Sheyla JafarovaDermatovenereologist, aesthetic dermatologist, acne expert
Know your skin type
Every skin type is different, and care is chosen to match it. But skin type and skin condition are not the same thing: oily skin can also be dehydrated and sensitive.
- Oily: shiny during the day, enlarged pores
- Dry: feels tight, flakes
- Combination: oily T-zone, normal or dry cheeks
- Sensitive: reddens and stings easily, reacts to new products
Gentle cleansing
The goal of cleansing is not “squeaky clean” skin, but removing dirt and excess oil without damaging the barrier.
- Twice a day, morning and evening
- A pH-balanced, soap-free gel or foam
- Lukewarm water, not hot
- Always remove make-up and SPF in the evening
Moisturiser for every skin
A moisturiser repairs the skin barrier. Oily and acne-prone skin needs moisturising too; the product just needs to be light.
- Oily and acne-prone skin: a light, non-comedogenic gel-cream
- Dry skin: a rich cream with ceramides and glycerin
- Sensitive skin: a fragrance-free product with a short ingredient list
- If you are on acne treatment, a moisturiser is a must
SPF every day
Sunlight worsens pigmentation and darkens acne marks, and it is the main cause of visible early ageing of the face. SPF is the last step of your morning routine.
- SPF 30-50, broad spectrum (UVA and UVB)
- On cloudy days and in winter too
- Reapply every 2 hours outdoors, and right after swimming or sweating
- Do not forget your face, neck and ears
Active ingredients as needed
Retinoids, acids and vitamin C are powerful ingredients. Add them gradually, according to your skin concern and type.
- Introduce only one new product at a time
- Do not combine an acid and a retinoid on the same evening
- If irritation appears, stop and get advice
- Some actives are not allowed during pregnancy
Find out your phototype in 10 questions
The Fitzpatrick test shows how your skin reacts to the sun: how quickly it burns and how it tans. Answer 10 questions and see your result right away.
Your answers are calculated only on your device: they are not sent to any server and are not saved.
Question 1 of 10
Type I
Very fair, pale skin
Extremely sensitive skin: always burns, never tans.
Type II
Fair skin
Very sensitive skin: burns easily, tans minimally.
Type III
Light brown skin
Sensitive skin: sometimes burns, slowly tans to light brown.
Type IV
Moderate brown skin
Mildly sensitive skin: burns minimally, always tans to moderate brown.
Type V
Dark brown skin
Resistant skin: rarely burns, tans well.
Type VI
Deeply pigmented skin
Very resistant skin: never burns.
Fitzpatrick scale
- I
- II
- III
- IV
- V
- VI
Whatever your phototype, you need SPF 30-50 every day. Lighter phototypes burn faster, while darker phototypes are more prone to dark marks.
Source: Fitzpatrick, T. B. (1988). The validity and practicality of sun-reactive skin types I through VI. Archives of Dermatology, 124(6), 869-871. [PMID: 3377516] | [DOI: 10.1001/archderm.124.6.869]
This test does not replace medical advice. For an accurate assessment, see a dermatologist.
Four rules of SPF
The best SPF is the one you use every day. Choose the texture for your skin: a fluid or gel for oily skin, a cream for dry skin and a mineral-filter product for sensitive skin.
- for daily use, broad spectrum
- SPF 30-50
- approximate amount for face and neck
- 2 fingers
- reapplication interval outdoors, sooner in water or when sweating
- 2 hours
- in winter and on cloudy days too
- 365 days
If you are on acne treatment
Some acne medicines and peels make the skin more sensitive to the sun. Going out without SPF during this time increases the risk of dark marks.
A simple daily routine
Three or four steps are often enough. Add active ingredients only when needed, on a doctor’s advice.
Morning
- A gentle cleanser or lukewarm water
- An antioxidant serum, if needed
- A moisturiser that suits your skin type
- SPF 30-50
Evening
- Remove SPF and make-up
- A gentle cleanser
- The treatment or active your doctor prescribed
- Moisturiser
Scientific references
The information in this article is based on the following peer-reviewed papers and international clinical guidelines.
- Fitzpatrick, T. B. (1988). The validity and practicality of sun-reactive skin types I through VI. Archives of Dermatology, 124(6), 869-871. [PMID: 3377516] | [DOI: 10.1001/archderm.124.6.869]
- Young, A. R., Claveau, J., & Rossi, A. B. (2017). Ultraviolet radiation and the skin: Photobiology and sunscreen photoprotection. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 76(3S1), S100-S109. [PMID: 28038885] | [DOI: 10.1016/j.jaad.2016.09.038]
- Hughes, M. C., Williams, G. M., Baker, P., & Green, A. C. (2013). Sunscreen and prevention of skin aging: a randomized trial. Annals of Internal Medicine, 158(11), 781-790. [PMID: 23732711] | [DOI: 10.7326/0003-4819-158-11-201306040-00002]
- Green, A. C., Williams, G. M., Logan, V., & Strutton, G. M. (2011). Reduced melanoma after regular sunscreen use: randomized trial follow-up. Journal of Clinical Oncology, 29(3), 257-263. [PMID: 21135266] | [DOI: 10.1200/JCO.2010.28.7078]
- Petersen, B., & Wulf, H. C. (2014). Application of sunscreen--theory and reality. Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine, 30(2-3), 96-101. [PMID: 24313722] | [DOI: 10.1111/phpp.12099]
- Diffey, B. L. (2001). When should sunscreen be reapplied? Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 45(6), 882-885. [PMID: 11712033] | [DOI: 10.1067/mjd.2001.117385]
- Draelos, Z. D. (2018). The science behind skin care: Cleansers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(1), 8-14. [PMID: 29231284] | [DOI: 10.1111/jocd.12469]
- Purnamawati, S., Indrastuti, N., Danarti, R., & Saefudin, T. (2017). The Role of Moisturizers in Addressing Various Kinds of Dermatitis: A Review. Clinical Medicine & Research, 15(3-4), 75-87. [PMID: 29229630] | [DOI: 10.3121/cmr.2017.1363]
